Chamomile - The Skin Healing Floral

The herb Chamomile has been used medicinally for thousands of years, ancient Egyptians revered the herb and dedicated it to their sun god. Chamomile belongs to the family of heliotropic plants, these are flowers that track the sun. Heliotropic flowers actually turn their blossoms to face the sun. Many plants with heliotropic flowers belong to the Sunflower family (Asteraceae, Compositae), which includes more than 24,000 species. In the Middle Ages, chamomile was planted in garden walkways because being walked upon vitalized the plant, causing it to release its powerful apple-like fragrance.

POTENT ACTIVE COMPOUNDS  

BISABOLOL – Is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-irritant, anti-fungal and non-allergenic. Bisabolol is found in both German and Roman chamomile essential oils although German chamomile has a higher concentration. Bisabolol or alpha-bisabolol is natural monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol. Sesquiterpenes are compounds often found in essential oils. They often play an important role in plant defense and it is thought that plants evolved these compounds to protect themselves from fungal attack or animal grazing. 

Promotes healing and therefore a great tissue regenerator - Known for its anti-inflammatory properties, but is also antibacterial, anti-irritant, anti-fungal and non-allergenic (Kamatou & Viljoen, 2010). It promotes tissue regeneration (Thornfeldt, 2005).

Penetration enhancer - Assists other molecules to get across the top layers of the skin. One study found that skin pretreated with bisabolol made it up to 73 times more permeable for certain molecules (Kadir & Barry, 1991). This mechanism is like unicorn tears for cosmetics formulators (aka moi) as it will help other beneficial compounds to get further down into deeper layers of the skin. Our Certified Organic German Chamomile essential oil contains 48% bisabolol.

CHAMAZULENE  – This is only found in the essential oils of Roman and German chamomile and is created during the distillation process from another compound called matricin. This compound causes the essential oil of German chamomile in to go a deep rich blue. Roman chamomile essential oils are often distilled in a way that prevents the formation of chamazulene, as there is demand for the pale straw colour. Chamazulene provides the anti-inflammatory properties of both chamomiles. 

Free radical scavenging - Is what is thought to responsible for its effectiveness in treating inflamed skin conditions. It helps decrease inflammation by mildly inhibiting the enzyme that is involved in the inflammation response according to research.

Antioxidant activityGerman Chamomile has stronger antioxidant activity than Vitamin C, vitamin E and the synthetic antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT).

Inflammation - It helps to decrease inflammation by moderately inhibiting the 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) enzyme that is involved in the inflammation response. 

COMPOSITION: chamomile flower

  • Active Compounds: Beta Farnesene // Bisabolol oxide A+B // Alpha Bisabolol // Chamazulene // Isobutylene Angelate // 3-Methylpentyl Angelate // Isoamyl Angelate
  • Fatty Acids: Linoleic Acid // Oleic Acid
  • Allergens: d-Limonene (0.00006% present in the formula)
  • Pregnant Women: Considered Safe to use while pregnant and nursing // 
    Always seek advice from a qualified professional regarding essential oil usage while pregnant or nursing (breastfeeding)

METHOD OF EXTRACTION: Steam Distilled 
INCI NOMENCLATURE: Matricaria recutita
PLANT PART USED: Flowers
CULTIVATION METHOD: Certified Organic
ORIGIN: Nepal 
BOTANICAL FAMILY: Asteraceae
HARVESTING FACTS: 
In Nepal, Chamomile is harvested between February and March.
NOTE: Middle - The majority of essential oils are considered middle notes and normally give body to the blend and have a balancing effect.
AROMA: Intensely sweet, herbaceous aroma with a fresh fruity undertone.

A Frenchman called Piesse classified the odors of essential oils in the 19th century according to musical scales, and this is where the top, middle and base notes originated.

CONCLUSION I have chosen to incorporate Certified Organic German 'Blue' Chamomile into our Hero [face] serum for its many skin loving properties:

Tones the skin -  Astringent properties help as a pore cleaning treatment.
Soothes -  Anti-inflammatory properties provide a soothing action for allergic, sensitive and problematic skins. It can help to relieve itchy and inflamed skin conditions for example eczema.
Heals - It has been shown to promote faster healing than corticosteroids.
Antioxidant-rich - Helps reduce acne inflammation, breakouts, and minor scars.
Helps fight and block out irritants - By eliminating free radicals which damage your skin and accelerate the skin ageing process.

 

Until next time

be human be kind be you

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REFERENCES:

BOOK // The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy Salvatore Battaglia 

Journal // Kadir, R. & Barry, B.W. 1991. Alpha-Bisabolol, a possible safe penetration enhancer for dermal and transdermal therapeutics. International Journal of Pharmaceutics Volume 70, Issues 1–2, 31 March 1991, Pages 87–94.

BOOK // Johnson, Dr. Scott A.. Evidence-Based Essential Oil Therapy: The Ultimate Guide to the Therapeutic and Clinical Application of Essential 

Journal // Kamatou, G.P.P. & Viljoen, A.M. 2010. A Review of the Application and Pharmacological Properties of α-Bisabolol and α-Bisabolol-Rich Oils. Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society January 2010, Volume 87, Issue 1, pp 1-7

 

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